I've got some good news and bad news. The bad news first: If your roof is genuinely leaking, there's not much you can do other than replacing it. A solid roof is crucial for protecting your home, as water damage can devastate your walls in just a few months. Now for the good news: The image you posted likely indicates attic condensation rather than a leak. This can be caused by blocked or insufficient airflow and insulation in your attic. What should you do? Have a roofer come and inspect your home. More often than not, the solution is straightforward and much less expensive than you might think. I hope this helps!

It's generally a smart practice to replace flashing that is exposed to the elements. However, it's certainly not required every 15-20 years. A well-installed, high-quality flashing can typically last around 50 years. Roofers often include flashing in their initial quotes, anticipating it might need replacement. If it turns out unnecessary, they adjust the final bill accordingly.

Hi Gin It's really hard to say without looking at your roof. In general, we might install rain diverters in specific cases. It's unusual that there are diverters installed where there is a gutter. I would consult with a professional before removing them. Good luck!

Very easy fix! run a gutter that runs from where the water comes out on the low roof, to the eaves of the low roof. If you cannot do it yourself, expect to pay for an hour of labor (depending on the difficulty).

Hey Laura, It's tough to give solid advice without a picture, but here are some thoughts: A sinking roof is often a sign that the roof decking—the plywood or OSB beneath the shingles—is starting to rot. Even though your roof is only five years old, that’s typically around the time when issues from poor installation start becoming apparent. There’s a chance that the roofers didn’t replace the decking when they installed the new roof, meaning your roof might not be leaking but also wasn’t fully replaced five years ago. I strongly recommend reaching out to a roofing company to inspect the area before it turns into a bigger problem.

Roofers deal with this all the time and its a pretty trivial issue. Unless you have a flat roof or some other specialty roof, this is not anything to be worried about. -Ray

A 4/12 roof is on the cusp of where ice and water underlayment should be installed on the entire roof. In general your lower bid is correct. I'm not sure that I've ever seen damage on a roof that could have been saved if I&W underlayment were installed in non-problem areas — valleys and eaves as you mentioned. However, it is pretty standard practice to install it on the entire roof. A standard underlayment is very inexpensive and fast to install, especially on a low-sloped roof like yours.

Hey Nina, If you’ve installed actual plywood as your new roof deck, it could pose a problem. Plywood needs to be “dried-in” promptly. This means applying underlayment over it right away, especially if shingles won’t be added for several weeks. That said, any impact is likely to be cosmetic. The shingles might appear wavy or uneven, but they’ll still perform their intended function. I’d suggest replacing the plywood with ½" OSB panels instead. They're more suitable and typically cost around $15 per 4' x 8' sheet. Best of luck!

Hi Ozzy, I’ve sent you a separate email with additional details, but the solution here is actually quite straightforward with a roof cricket. Crickets are designed to sit against chimneys or skylights, redirecting water flow to prevent it from hitting the flashing directly or pooling in place. If it’s just the roof cricket that’s needed, you can expect the cost to be around $800. This typically includes both installation and re-flashing the chimney, which is necessary since the cricket changes the shape and how the water interacts with the flashing

Hi Manny, Here are a few things to keep an eye on: - Make sure the intake vents near the soffits aren't obstructed. A quick sweep with a broom on the exterior can help keep them clear. - In the attic, check that the baffles are functioning properly and allowing airflow from those vents. - Avoid mixing different types of ventilation—building science strongly advises against it. Box vents can unintentionally act as intake vents, which can cause issues. If you're unsure about how much ridge vent is needed, there are online calculators that can help. Otherwise, stick to either power vents or box vents—never both. - Finally, take humidity readings throughout the day. During hot weather, the attic humidity should stay close to ambient air humidity. Let me know if you need help with any of these!

I'm sorry to hear about this situation. It appears that your roof underwent a "roof-over," meaning the old shingles were left in place when the new ones were installed. While this isn't entirely uncommon in roofing practices, it’s not considered the best approach. The issue seems to be that the roofers didn’t use longer nails capable of penetrating through the multiple layers. Without this support, the shingles were unable to withstand the weight of heavy snow, which ultimately caused them to come loose. Although you mentioned the shingles themselves appear to be in good condition, based on the image you shared, the roof needs immediate replacement. Unfortunately, removing the additional layers of shingles will likely lead to higher replacement costs.

The best way to ensure you're getting a fair price from a roofing contractor is to collect at least three quotes. Make sure each quote covers the same scope of work—such as re-flashing all chimneys, using the same type of underlayment, and applying the same ice and water shield. The quality and cost of these materials can vary significantly, so consistency is key for an accurate comparison. When it comes to materials, it’s usually best to go with the roofing contractor’s supplier. Contractors often receive substantial discounts due to the high volume of materials they purchase annually. Savings that individual homeowners typically can’t match.